complete story at nytimes:
The studied slouch for spring, as presented by Ann Demeulemeester.
By RUTH LA FERLA
Published: October 26, 2004
asper Vigil, a singer with a band named Virus, gazed at a poster of the Ramones above the register at Trash & Vaudeville, the long-running rock boutique on St. Marks Place, where he moonlights as a salesman. "Ugly miscreants," Mr. Vigil muttered with affection. His own look -- tar-colored, soap-stiffened hair, sleeveless black denim jacket, tight jeans -- owed a clear debt to Joey Ramone and his unruly clan, the American granddaddies of punk.
Another salesman, Ian Michael, a member of a punk band called the Planks, was just as intimidating. His raggedy hair was blackened on one side and bleached white on the other -- a stylized male Cruella De Vil. He hoped to look dangerous. "A little danger is kind of appealing, isn't it?" he asked.
Just when it seemed safe to look pretty again, with ladylike clothes in stores, punk has reared its spiky head, a compelling alternative to the ruffles, granny brooches, fox stoles and well-mannered tweeds that are this season's chief retail statement